The Independent Pharmacy

Acne Purging Vs Breakout: Know The Difference

Scott McDougall
Scott McDougall
MPharm GPhC 2079324
Director & Registered Manager

Clearer skin is something many people crave, and the promise of fewer blemishes can make starting a new skincare routine seem exciting. Finally, it feels like you’re on your way to getting the clearer, fresher skin of your dreams. If your skin suddenly seems to get worse, it can be frustrating and even upsetting. Are the new products causing you to break out? This anxiety can cause you to wonder if you should stop your new routine and go back to the products and skincare plan you were using before.

The good news is that this may not be a breakout. It could be something called purging. Purging is where your skin seems to get worse before it gets better. It can look quite similar to a break out, but it’s actually very different.

This guide is designed to help you tell the difference between purging and breakouts, so you can decide if you should stick with your new routine or try a different approach.

Key Takeaways 1

Purging is temporary and shows treatment is working

Key Takeaway 2

Breakouts persist without addressing root causes

Key Takeaway 3

Location and appearance help distinguish between the two

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Acne Purging Vs Breakout At A Glance

Sometimes, it helps to be able to see a direct comparison between two things. This can let you see the differences more clearly. Here’s a handy table to show you the main differences between purging and breakouts quickly. It looks at six key aspects so you can easily figure out which one you’re likely experiencing.

AspectAcne PurgingBreakout
How it looksSmall white and red bumps; mostly where you've used the new cream or treatmentBigger, painful bumps; can appear anywhere, especially where you usually get pimples
How long it lasts2-6 weeks (happens when your skin is getting used to a new product)Keeps coming and going until you figure out what's causing it
Why it happensYour skin is quickly getting rid of old cells because of the new productMany reasons: stress, certain foods, using the wrong skincare products, and more
Where it shows upForehead, cheeks, chin (mainly where you put the new product)Anywhere, like the jawline, neck, and even back
What you should doStay patient, be gentle with your skin, don't pick at it, and keep using the product unless it burnsMight need to change your creams or products, and maybe see a skin expert if it doesn't go away
Will it come back?Usually just happens once when you start a new productCan come and go, especially if you don't know what's causing it

What Is Acne Purging?

Your dead skin cells shed every 28 days or so. Acne purging is what happens when this natural cell turnover speeds up. Instead of taking 28 days for dead skin cells to shed, some acne treatments make this process happen faster. But - when it only takes 14-21 days for the skin to renew itself, anything that was forming under the skin's surface gets pushed up all at once. Congestion, blockages or spots come to the surface quicker than they would have otherwise, which can look like a sudden breakout.

Ingredients that often cause purging include:

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Because these work by removing dead skin cells, they speed up the renewal process and bring underlying congestion to the surface of the skin. However, in the long-term they also unclog pores and help prevent future spots. This means that you may need to go through a temporary purging episode to receive the longer term benefits of the treatment.

Signs that you’re experiencing purging, not a breakout, include:

What Are Acne Breakouts?

Breakouts are less to do with the natural cycle of your skin, and more to do with things clogging your pores. Your pores can get blocked with:

or a combination of these. When they’re blocked, spots can form. These can be mild or more severe depending on how severe the blockage is and whether there’s any bacteria present. Spots often start as small whiteheads or blackheads, but you might also get large, more painful spots like pustules and cysts. These typically form when infection sets in.

Common things that trigger spots include:

Breakouts are a sign that one or more of these triggers is affecting your skin, and you’ll need to take steps to try and restore the cleanliness and health of your skin.

Key signs of a true breakout include:

Unlike purging, breakouts won’t go away by themselves. To manage breakouts, you need to figure out what’s unbalancing your skin. From there, you can determine how you can treat the root cause and hopefully limit future episodes.

How To Tell The Difference Between Purging And Breakouts

Figuring out the difference between purging and breakouts can be tricky, but there are certain things you can look out for to tell them apart.

Purging typically follows a predictable pattern. It appears in areas where you usually get spots, like your forehead, cheeks or chin. They usually look very similar to each other, appearing more uniform. Purging usually happens within two weeks of you starting a new product, specifically one with active ingredients that impact the skin’s renewal process. And finally, it usually improves by itself after four to six weeks.

Breakouts, on the other hand, are less predictable. Blemishes can appear anywhere and may be red, itchy or sore. Because they have a root cause, they often stick around or get worse if you don’t treat the cause. This could be anything from stress, hormones or even products that block your pores..

How To Manage Purging

The big thing to remember about managing purging is that you need patience. You’ll likely want to stop using the product, but you don’t need to. Your skin will adjust to the new active ingredients you’re using and the purging will eventually resolve.

To minimise the impact on your skin, make sure you use gentle cleansers and a lightweight, non-comedogenic (non-pore blocking) moisturiser. You should avoid harsh products and abrasive face scrubs as these can make things worse.

Products with niacinamide can calm spots and soothe irritation. CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum contains retinol, liquorice root extract, niacinamide, and three essential ceramides to help protect your skin.

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Other things you can do include staying hydrated by drinking plenty of water, and trying to manage stress. Sleep is also important to help your skin heal. If you notice that purging is lasting longer than around six weeks, it might be worth speaking to a healthcare professional.

How To Treat Breakouts

The first step in treating breakouts is figuring out why they’re happening. When you’ve done that, you can decide on the right products to tackle the problem.

If you’re experiencing breakouts, you’ll want to start with a gentle cleanser to make sure you’re unclogging the pores effectively without irritating the skin. Choose products containing ingredients like salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, or azelaic acid to help the skin’s renewal process.

To avoid breakouts to begin with, make sure the other skincare you use is non-comedogenic (non-pore-blocking) and that your makeup is too. Always remove makeup properly every evening and never sleep in it.

For more severe or stubborn acne, you might need a prescription from a doctor or dermatologist. They may recommend products such as Acnecide or Differin 0.1% Cream/Gel to really tackle it.

Differin 0.1% Cream/Gel

Differin 0.1% Cream/Gel

Differin reduces the growth of keratin skin cells that would normally act to block pores in acne vulgaris. Start a free consultation and have it delivered as soon as the next working day.

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Building A Skincare Routine For Clear Skin

Keeping your skin clear involves consistency. Unfortunately you can’t just use a product once and be done with it. You need to build a gentle daily routine and stick to it. Wash your face twice a day, gently exfoliate a few times a week, and always wear sunscreen in the morning.

When you choose products, make sure you opt for ones that are:

These are less likely to irritate your skin, but you should always do a patch test before trying new products, just in case. This involves trying the product on a small area to check it doesn’t cause a reaction on your skin. When you know it’s suitable for your skin you can then use it on your entire face.

Don’t mix and match products - switching products too often can irritate your skin. Keep things simple and introduce one new product at a time, so your skin doesn’t get overwhelmed.

If, after trying a full skincare routine, you still have breakouts and your skin doesn't improve, it’s okay to ask for help.

Speak to a healthcare professional if your breakouts:

Looking after your skin takes time and care, but clear skin is possible with the right routine and support.

Always Remember...

It is essential that you speak to a licensed medical professional before starting any acne medication. They can provide personalised, expert guidance, assess potential risks and ensure that your chosen treatment is safe and suitable for your health needs.

Do You Need Support With Your Skin?

Awareness of the differences between breakouts and acne purging means you can care for your skin better. Purging is usually a short term problem and will resolve with time, whereas breakouts need you to tackle the underlying cause. If you're unsure what's happening with your skin, it's always best to ask an expert.

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Scott McDougall

Authored by

Scott McDougall
Scott McDougall
MPharm
2079324
Director & Registered Manager

Scott is one of the two founders of The Independent Pharmacy. He is a registered pharmacist and the registered manager of our service with the CQC.

Daniel Hurley

Reviewed by

Daniel Hurley
Daniel Hurley
MPharm IP
2078790
Pharmacist Independent Prescriber

Dan is an experienced pharmacist having spent time working in both primary and secondary care. He currently supports our clinical team by providing robust clinical governance review of our internal processes and information.